Ritigala

Ritigala is one of Sri Lanka's most atmospheric ancient sites — and one of its least visited. A forested mountain rising dramatically from the dry zone scrubland between Anuradhapura and Habarana, Ritigala is home to the ruins of an ancient forest monastery that was abandoned around the 12th century and slowly consumed by the jungle. Unlike the major Cultural Triangle sites, Ritigala has no crowds, no tour buses and no souvenir stalls. Walking through the ruins here — stone platforms half-buried in roots, meditation paths disappearing into dense forest, the silence broken only by birdsong — is a completely different experience from Sigiriya or Polonnaruwa.

The Monastery Ruins

Ritigala Strict Nature Reserve contains an extensive complex of ruins from what was once a significant forest monastery — the Aritta Vihara, mentioned in ancient chronicles. The most distinctive features are the double-platform structures unique to Ritigala: pairs of raised stone platforms connected by a stone bridge, used by meditating monks. The platforms were deliberately built away from ground level so that monks could meditate above the tree canopy. Stone pathways connect the various monastic structures across the mountain — you can trace the old walking routes through the forest, following stone-paved paths that have been partly cleared by the archaeology department. The ruins also include stone bathing pools (pokuna), a refectory and what appears to be a medicinal herb garden — the mountain's diverse micro-climate supported plants not found in the surrounding dry zone.

The Jungle Environment

Part of what makes Ritigala extraordinary is the contrast between the mountain and its surroundings. The slopes of Ritigala receive significantly more rainfall than the surrounding dry zone — creating a patch of dense, moist forest on an otherwise arid plain. The mountain is a registered Strict Nature Reserve and wildlife sanctuary. Deer, monitor lizards and a variety of birds inhabit the forest; elephants move through seasonally. The paths through the ruins pass under large trees, with roots and vines slowly reclaiming the stonework. The atmosphere — especially in the early morning before the heat builds — is genuinely remarkable.

Historical Context

Ritigala appears in the Mahavamsa chronicle and is associated with the forest-dwelling (aranyaka) tradition of Buddhist monasticism — monks who lived in remote forest settings away from urban monasteries. The site was used from at least the 1st century BC through to the 12th century AD. Local legend also identifies Ritigala with the Lank­agiri mountain mentioned in the Ramayana, from which the monkey king Hanuman gathered medicinal herbs to revive Lakshmana — a claim that adds another layer of mythological significance to the mountain's reputation for medicinal plants.

Visiting Ritigala

The site is managed by the Central Cultural Fund and has a small admission fee. A guide is strongly recommended — the paths through the ruins are not always obvious and the historical context adds considerably to the experience. Guides are usually available at the entrance; negotiate in advance. The walk through the main ruins takes about 1.5–2 hours. Start early to avoid the heat — by late morning the forest can become uncomfortably warm. Bring water, sturdy shoes (the stone surfaces are uneven) and insect repellent.

Getting There

Ritigala is located about 30km west of Habarana and 50km east of Anuradhapura, signposted from the A11 road between those two cities. There is no public transport directly to the site; tuk-tuk from Habarana (the most convenient base) takes about 45 minutes each way. Most visitors combine Ritigala with nearby Aukana Buddha statue or add it as a side trip from the Sigiriya/Habarana area. A tuk-tuk waiting round trip typically costs LKR 3,000–4,000 from Habarana.

Tips for Visitors

• Arrive early — 7–9am is ideal for cool temperatures and good light
• Hire a guide at the entrance; the ruins are hard to navigate alone and the historical context is worth having
• Wear long trousers and closed shoes — the forest paths have uneven stone and potential for ant contact
• Ritigala pairs well with Aukana (30km away) for a full day of off-the-beaten-track Cultural Triangle sites
• There is no food or water available on site — bring everything you need from Habarana